The greatest sporting event of the year is happening this Sunday in America – the Superbowl (disclaimer – this is according to Americans, and they may have a reason to be slightly biased). In honour of this auspicious occasion, we are tasting American craft beer, and looking at what competition means in beer.
For the Seattle Seahawks, we are tasting Red Hook Audible Ale – a beer brewed in collaboration with American Broadcaster Dan Patrick (sports broadcaster on ESPN for 18 years, and now host of the Dan Patrick Show).
While there are excellent beers available from Denver (Denver Broncos are the Seahawks’ competition this year), it does not appear that any of them are coming into Ireland. So instead of a Seattle v. Denver craft beer showdown, for the second beer, we will be tasting a beer from the state that has been knocked into second place for number of craft breweries per capita in the latest U.S. Brewers Association figures.
Widmer Pitch Black IPA is from Portland, Oregon – often considered the birthplace of craft brewing in the U.S. In tasting this beer, we will be looking at how craft brewing has re-defined competition in brewing in America – bringing it more in line with the ethos of competition associated with American Football and the NFL, and away from the ethos associated with Baseball, as depicted in the film Moneyball.
The Superbowl:
Much like craft beer, there has long been an ‘underground’ interest in American Football in Ireland, and in recent years, the level of interest in both American Football and in craft beer seems to be gaining significant momentum. This weekend, the Superbowl will be broadcast live on Channel 4 (Sunday night from 10:30pm).
Work does not allow me the luxury of watching the match live through until 4 in the morning, so I expect that I will have to avoid all broadcasting on Monday morning so that I don’t hear the result, and I can enjoy the match from a Sky box recording on Monday evening with a few beers.
Most people are familiar with the idea of American Football. Many are familiar with the basic concept – two teams of eleven players face off in a series of ‘downs’, the offence having the goal of moving the ball from their end to the Defence’s End Zone to score a touchdown, or kicking for a field goal if a touchdown seems beyond their grasp. Relatively few grasp all of the technical rules of the game – however, it is not important to understand every single technical nuance of the game to enjoy a match.
In this respect, it’s a lot like craft beer – sometimes you get geeks talking on the radio (read ‘me’ for ‘geeks’) going through various technical aspects of the ingredients, brewing process or style of a particular beer. However, for most, simply enjoying the flavour of the beer is what’s most important.
The structure of an American Football game lends itself perfectly to enjoying beer. While the game itself is theoretically only one hour long, a game will typically last for 3.5 to over 4 hours, with timeouts and stoppages during the game. In America, this allows broadcasters to charge obscene amounts of money for regular 30 second advertisements during the course of the game.
It also allows commentators to review plays, and discuss strategy, tactics and technical rules that might be relevant to a particular incident. Most importantly from my point of view, it affords regular breaks from the sporting action to allow the viewer to balance their time between the excitement of the match, and (while ignoring the numerous ads, and deciding whether to pay attention to the technical commentary or not) properly considering the flavour of the beer being drunk while enjoying the game.
Just like the diversity of teams that compete in the Superbowl, there are no end of beers to enjoy during a match. We have two American craft beer suggestions to-day. In years to come, if a London-based franchise for the NFL comes to pass (the Jacksonville Jaguars look to be making moves to potentially re-establish their residency in London), we might find that drinking English beers during the Superbowl is appropriate.
Competition, American football and craft beer
Economists love competition. In theory, with perfect competition, competitors are under constant pressure to ‘up their game’ and the results are meant to be better for all concerned. In practice, competition has a bright and a dark side.
Comparing the approach to competition in American Football and in Baseball is like comparing the approach to competition taken by craft brewers and mainstream brewers. It gives food for thought as to what type of competition we should be encouraging.
In American Football, the draft system means that teams that have performed least well in a season get the best opportunity to recruit better quality players to improve their competitive strengths. Their schedule takes into account the need to ‘re-build’ their position – a schedule of facing all top ranking teams is avoided. This system meant that the Kansas City Chiefs, while performing disastrously in 2012, took the spotlight in 2013.
While the Chiefs didn’t succeed in making it through the playoffs to the Superbowl, one would have to accept that the 2013 season allowed them to rebuild foundations and make them a better team to compete into the future.
In any professional sport, money is a major factor. Winning teams make more money, which they can re-invest to improve their strengths and address their weaknesses. The film Moneyball depicted how results in baseball are heavily influenced by the massive bank balances of the leading teams.
It was a testament to the Oakland ‘A’s how well they performed with such a limited budget and against the odds – however, this story is more the exception than the rule, and the Red Sox adopted the strategies used by the ‘A’s to allow them to better leverage their massive bank balance in the years following the time depicted in the film. In contrast, with salary caps for teams, the NFL tries to ensure that money does not become the primary factor determining winners in American Football.
Overall, American Football has quite an enlightened approach to competition. No-one can deny that the competition in American Football is intense – the sheer physicality of the games is testament to this. However the ethos of the sport is that steps are taken on an ongoing basis to prevent the playing field from being unbalanced.
The result is more competitive matches between teams that are better matched, and more enjoyable sporting occasions for the fans and spectators. A second result is that teams always have the possibility to re-establish themselves at the top of the game.
There is a direct comparison between the ethos of competition in sports and the ethos for competition in craft beer. History has shown that mainstream brewers have often sought to remove competing brewers from the playing field by buying them out or closing them down rather than accepting competition, and seeking to brew beer that will be best appreciated by beer drinkers.
David and Goliath
The growth of craft breweries in the last forty years is very much a David and Goliath story akin to that of the Oakland ‘A’s – a testament to how the quality of the beer that they were brewing won out over the massive marketing and production budgets of the big brewers.
Craft brewers are also more likely to demonstrate a more enlightened approach to competition than mainstream brewers. Craft brewers are more likely to arrange a beer festival as an opportunity for all brewers to showcase the beers that they have brewed on a level playing field. In contrast, mainstream brewers will often seek to agree exclusivity deals with venues to prevent other beers being available to beer drinkers for a particular occasion or at a particular site.
Craft brewers are often more likely to adopt a co-operative approach to other craft brewers, while mainstream brewers will often adopt aggressive tactics designed to ‘remove’ other competing brewers from the game. When it comes to litigation, there is an interesting contrast between the antagonistic approach reflected in the ongoing ‘American Budweiser’ versus ‘Czech Budweiser’ debacle, and comparable situations that have emerged in craft brewing.
When Russian River Brewing Company and Avery Brewing Company in the States came to realise that they were both using ‘Salvation’ as a brand name for two beers that they were brewing. Rather than fighting over naming rights, the brewers came together and brewed a beer which they named ‘Collaboration, Not Litigation Ale’.
A right to good beer
Maybe sometime soon mainstream brewers will come to realise that beer drinkers want to be able to choose the beer that they drink, and that they would like this beer to be the best beer it can possibly be. Nobody in craft brewing suggests that there should be no competition.
However, competition should be respectful of others’ right to compete, and gracious in recognising when others are successful in their endeavours. Attempts to prevent beer drinkers from getting access to better beer is not ‘winning’ – growth in craft beers popularity demonstrates that such an approach is alienating many beer drinkers, and in the long term craft beers are winning out against the blocking tactics often adopted by mainstream brewers.
My hope (this is my “I have a dream ...” moment) is that the starting point for competition in brewing is that brewers will agree to be honest, respect other breweries, and focus on maximising the quality and choice available to beer drinkers.
After this foundation, it is every brewers’ job to brew the best beer they can to delight the taste buds of the people who are most important in the whole equation – the beer drinkers.
Brewers have to consider whether they are really ‘winning’ if the tactics used to win involve preventing other (some would argue – better – but ultimately, that judgement should be down to individual beer drinkers) competitors from being able to play in the game at all.
Ultimately, adopting the wrong competitive ethos may leave Johnny standing in the middle of the football field holding his own football, with nobody else to play with, and nobody interested in watching the game. Meanwhile, the people who really enjoy the game are having a blast in the ‘craft beer back yard’ around the corner.
Red Hook Audible Ale
Beer Style - American Pale Ale
Alcohol by Volume - 4.7% a.b.v.
Brewed by - Red Hook Brewery, in collaboration with Dan Patrick
Brewed in - Seattle, Washington State, U.S.A.
Red Hook Audible Ale is a beer brewed in collaboration with Dan Patrick. Dan is a long-time broadcaster in the U.S. After spending 18 years at ESPN, he established his sporting credentials. He now hosts The Dan Patrick Show. Audible was brewed in consultation with Dan with the goal of brewing a beer that would be ideal to enjoy while watching sport. Designed to be sessionable, at 4.7% it offers a superb blend of malt and hop character, while ensuring that the beer does not indulge in the extremes of taste offered by some beers from the American craft beer movement.
Firstly, the sporting references. An ‘Audible’ is an instruction given by a quarterback in an American Football game. When the Offense lines up at the line of scrimmage at the beginning of a play, they will have agreed on a ‘play’ or a set of tactics. If the quarterback decides at the last moment before the play begins to change these tactics, he tells his team by giving an ‘audible’.
Now, the more important bit – what is the beer like? Red Hook Audible Ale is described as an American Pale Ale. In colour terms, this can put the beer anywhere between pale gold to dark amber. In the case of Audible, the colour is a deep straw gold, with a white head. Aromas from Audible are subtle – a little citrusy hops combined with pine and a touch of biscuity maltiness.
Toasty, biscuit malt combines with bready character and hoppy fruitiness – citric (lime, subtle grapefruit), lemongrass. Bitterness is restrained – enough to provide good balance to the malt character (22 IBU’s) and to provide a slightly dry, but incredibly refreshing character, but not so much to leave any lingering bitterness in the finish.
When one is talking about American craft beer, one often anticipates that the taste will be full and characterful. In the case or Red Hook Audible, the key is to keep in mind what the goal is with the beer. Red Hook are looking to brew a craft beer that can be enjoyed while watching sporting events.
Sessionability of the beer is a key consideration – at 4.7% a.b.v., the beer is by no means above average strength. Flavours and aromas are appropriately present (as one would expect with a craft beer) but restrained compared to fuller flavoured craft beer. In terms of what they have set out to achieve, I would say that Red Hook have done a superb job of brewing a deliciously sessionable beer.
Widmer Pitch Black IPA
Beer Style - Black IPA (Cascadian Dark Ale)
Alcohol by Volume - 6.5% a.b.v.
Brewed by - Widmer Bros. Brewing Company
Brewed in - Portland, Oregon, U.S.A.
Vermont has recently pipped Oregon at the post for most breweries per capita in the U.S. – one brewery for every 24,067 people in Vermont versus one for every 26,791 in Oregon. However, with 143 breweries in Oregon versus 26 in Vermont, Oregon is still proud of its status as the birthplace of craft brewing in the U.S. Widmer Bros. Brewing Company was one of the breweries responsible for contributing to the birth of craft brewing in America.
Pitch Black IPA from Widmer Bros is an example of what can come about when creativity and innovation is let flourish in a competitive environment. The style of ‘Black IPA’ is a bit of an oxymoron (black, pale ale). However, with a strong love of India Pale Ales and an interest in darker styles of beer, it is no surprise that a number of American craft breweries would throw convention to one side, and brew an interesting new style of beer.
In recognition of the contradiction in the name of the style, some have taken to re-naming the style ‘Cascadian Dark Ale’ in tribute to the Cascade hop, which has emerged as one of the most popular hops in craft brewing in the Pacific Northwest.
A Black IPA seeks to combine the hoppy character associated with an India Pale Ale with the dark, roasty, smoky character associated with dark malts. In so doing, there is a need to make a decision about balance – both of these flavours can be intense by themselves, and with many beer styles, only one would be in evidence. With a Black IPA, the tendency is for the brewers to restrain the dark malt character, while ensuring that it is present and in evidence, so that the hop character (associated with the IPA part of the style) can shine through.
Widmer Pitch Black IPA is true to this philosophy, but some (particularly lovers of IPAs with intense hop character) might argue that the hop character is restrained relative to intense, high IBU IPA’s. At 65 IBU’s, Pitch Black IPA is most respectably at what would have been considered the ‘normal’ parameters for an IPA in terms of bitterness.
However, with some American craft brewers shooting for bitterness levels of 100 and above, it is not surprising that judgements from lovers of such intensely hoppy brews would be that Pitch Black holds back on punching people in the face with hop bitterness and character.
In colour, Pitch Black IPA is a deep black colour (no surprise there) with a tan, espresso head. Aromas deliver roast malt, chocolate, caramel, citrus and pine. Floral aromas also come through in tandem with the dark malt character in the beer.
In flavour, there is no mistaking the dark malt character in this beer. Mocha, espresso, chocolate, coffee and a touch of smokiness are all in evidence. However, this malt character combines and is strangely enhanced by the pine and citrus character from the hops. Under normal circumstances, one might feel that citrus and dark malt are strange bedfellows, but this beer demonstrates that, with the correct balance, the combination can be incredibly delicious.
If one is looking to taste a beer that reflects the best of what the American craft brewing revolution has contributed to beer, Widmer Pitch Black IPA would be a great place to start!
Beers Available In
Jus De Vine Off-Licence, Portmarnock, Dublin
Egan's Food and Wine, Portlaoise, Co. Laoise
The Merrion Inn, Merrion Road, Booterstown, County Dublin
Ely HQ Gastropub, Hanover Quay (near Grand Canal Theatre)
Ely CHQ, IFSC
Solas, Wexford St
Joe Smith Bar, Navan
Brew Dock, Amiens St Dublin 1
Next Door Meath St
The Dark Horse, Blackrock, Co Dublin
The Headline Bar, Clanbrassil St, Dublin 2
Goldsmith's, Quinsboro Road, Bray, Co. Wicklow
Whelans Wexford St, Dublin 2
Devaneys Rathmines
Martins Fairview
McCabe's Off-Licence, Blackrock
Drinks Store Manor St
Redmond's of Ranelagh, Dublin
Callans Dundalk
Delaneys Aungier St Dublin
Sweeney's Wine Merchants, Phibsboro
Against the Grain, Wexford St
The Black Sheep, Capel St
The Wine Shop, Perrystown
Holland's, Bray
Eurospar, Dalkey
Ice Box Balbriggan
Mitchell's Fine Wines, CHQ Building, IFSC
Probus Wines, Fenian Street, Dublin 2.
SuperValu Aston Quay
The Malthouse Trim
Spar Rathoath
The 12th Lock
Tribeca Restaurant Ranelagh
Deveney's of Dundrum, Dundrum, County Dublin
Bull & Castle Christchurch
McHughs O/L Malahide Road
Molloy's Liquor Store, Tallaght, County Dublin
Molloy's Liquor Store, Clondalkin, County Dublin
Molloy's Liquor Store, Nutgrove Shopping Centre, Dublin
McHughs O/L Kilbarrack
The Spirit Store
Molloy's Liquor Store, Leopardstown, County Dublin
O'Brien's Fine Wines, Nationwide
Lohan's Next Door Off-Licence, Salthill, Galway
Next Door Wicklow
Next Door @Donovan's Hotel, Clonakilty, Co. Cork
Dicey Reilly's Bar and Off-Licence, Ballyshannon, Co. Donegal
Strand Off-Licence, Fairview, Dublin 3
Next Door South Circular Road Dublin 8
Fine Wines Off-Licences, Nationwide
Superquinn
Bradley's Supermarket, North Main Street, Cork City
Castle Street Off-Licence, Tralee, Co. Kerry
1601 Off-Licence, Kinsale
Stack's Off-Licence, Listowel, Co. Kerry
The Bierhaus, Popes Quay, Cork
The Abbott Ale House, Devonshire Street, Cork
Desmond's Next Door, Fr. Russell Road, Raheen, Limerick
Number 21 Off-Licence, Coburg Street, Cork
Myles Creek Next Door Off-Licence, Kilkee, Co. Clare
Number 21 Off-Licence, Ballinacurra, Midleton, Cork
Matson's Inns, Douglas, Cork
Scholar's Bar, University of Limerick
The Blind Pig, Limerick
The Bay Restaurant, Clontarf Road, Clontaft, Dublin 3
Newcastle House, Hotel and Country Club, Ballymahon, County Longford
Timothy Crow Next Door
Dwan's Spar
Next Door Athy
Next Door Kilcoole
Foleys Sligo
Centra Enfield
House of Lotus Restaurant and Off-Licence, South Main Street, Wexford
Blackrock Cellars Off-Licence, Blackrock, County Dublin
Desmond's Next Door, Sundrive Road, Kimmage, Dublin
L. Mulligans Grocers, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7
Fitzgerald's of Sandycove, Sandycove Road, Dunlaoghaire
The Step Inn, Stepaside, Dublin 18
Bank College Green
Kavanagh's Off-Licence
Rathmines Inn
Sky and Ground Wexford
Bewleys Leopardstown
WJ Kavanagh Pub
McSorleys
Healys Wicklow
The Old Orchard
Cinnamon Wine Bar and Cafe, Ranelagh, Dublin
Farrington's, Templebar, Dublin 2
