This Christmas, I was fortunate enough to receive a present of some India Pale Ale glasses. While these glasses have undergone their initial test to ensure that they work (i.e. that they hold liquid, and that they convey this liquid into my mouth in an appropriate way), to-day, we are field testing my Christmas present, and conducting a comparative evaluation of my IPA glasses against some alternative glasses – a 1 litre ‘Homer Simpson’ stein that I gifted myself a few months ago (being tested by Sean), a standard ‘Slim Jim’ glass (appropriately film branded for Esther), and a standard tulip pint glass (tested by me).
To do this, we need some superb IPA’s. While the India Pale Ale style is English in origin, it has become the stand out style for lovers of IPA’s around the world, and as such has been interpreted by many American craft breweries, and also by brewers that are following craft philosophies around the world. Our two beers for to-day’s experiment are Maisel’s and Friends Stefan’s IPA (brewed in Bayreuth, Germany, and Upheaval IPA from Widmer Brothers in Portland, Oregon (USA).
The India Pale Ale Glass
The glass for serving beer does not always get as much attention as it should. More so than with other liquids, often beer suffers most from the glass being completely disregarded. While few people will drink a bottle of wine directly from the bottle, it is not unusual for people to drink a beer directly from its container – from the bottle or from the can. Moving from this to a situation where we are convincing people that, not only should they drink from a glass instead, that they should go to the trouble of having the appropriate beer glass for the appropriate beer – this is a task that might need some justification and convincing.
What difference does it make to drink a beer from a glass, and why is an IPA glass different from other glasses that could be used to serve this style of beer?
Firstly, it is worth considering what the qualities are of an India Pale Ale, and how these qualities might be influenced by the glass in which the beer is served. India Pale Ales are characterised by the following –
- Significant hop character, both in terms of aromatics from the beer, and in terms of higher than usual hop bitterness;
- Typically IPA’s are higher in strength – a classic IPA will be in the region of 6.0% to 7.5% - this in turn has implications for beer body and for residual sweetness, which comes back to the balancing of the hop bitterness from earlier;
- In appearance, an IPA will usually be pale straw gold to burnished gold or amber in colour, and will often be mildly cloudy, as many IPA’s are bottle conditioned. IPA’s present much better if they have a full head, and if this head is retained as the beer is drunk down the glass.
If we are looking at these characteristics in terms of the glass that is used to serve the beer, it is imperative that the glass accentuates the positives of the above style characteristics, without allowing any one to over-balance the other. At the end of the day, the glass needs to ensure that the appropriate balance is maintained in the beer, and that the beer is presented in the way that best reflects the vision of the brewer that motivated the brewing of the beer in the first place.
Comparison of Glasses
It is best to look at these glasses in terms of how the India Pale Ale glass influences each of the flavour characteristics that are associated with this beer’s style. Design of serving glasses has become increasingly sophisticated – starting with wine glasses designed to showcase particular varietals of wine, and now culminating in this being extended to showcase particular beer styles. Specific features of glasses influence how the beer is presented to the eyes, nose and palate, and decisions made in the design of the beer glass can all affect how the beer drinker gets to enjoy the beer.
Firstly, the bulbous top section of the glass is designed to capture aromatics, and provide enough space for the drinkers nose to be fully into the glass to enjoy these aromatics. With other glasses, it can be common for the glass to have a straight side or a side that tapers outwards. In both cases, a proportion of aromatics can be lost. If the glass is a ‘slim Jim’ style (thin, straight sided), the glass can be too thin for the drinker’s nose to fit inside – they don’t get to experience the aromatics. If the glass is broader, but straight sided, the aromatics escape to the atmosphere, and are not captured and as concentrated.
This is particularly relevant to current generation craft Indian Pale Ales. While IPA’s of the 1980’s in America tended towards a one-dimensional use of hops (the focus was very much on the level of bitterness delivered from hops used early in the boil), in more recent times, many brewers are demonstrating what can be achieved from more judiscious use of hops – demonstrating how bitterness can be further complemented by highlighting hop essential oils in both aromatics and flavour. By ensuring that these aromatics are captured and delivered to the beer drinkers nose, the IPA glass can ensure that the best of these hop characteristics are appreciated.
IPA’s should be above average in strength (at least classic IPA’s – it is fair to say that session IPA’s can be pleasing in their own way, but they are a sub-set of the style). Alcohol is lighter in body than water, but increasing alcohol in beer delivers a richness of flavour to the beer. Most brewers will tend to increase the body in the beer, by ensuring that there are sufficient residual sugars in the beer, coupled with appropriate proteins. These sugars, in turn, balance the other characteristic flavour associated with hops – bitterness. The glass can influence this in terms of how the liquid is delivered to the palate. A thinner glass, with a more pronounced concave edge can deliver liquid initially onto the front of the palate (the part that is more sensitive to sweet flavours) before allowing it to flow over the centre towards the back palate (more sensitive to bitter flavours). Thick rimmed, straight edged glasses are more indiscriminate in how they deliver the liquid to the palate – the liquid can spread across the entire palate, and sometimes ‘jump over’ the tip of the tongue. While the entire tongue has the capability of detecting sweet flavours, for many people they find that the tip of the tongue is particularly effective for detecting these flavours. Proper delivery of the liquid – initially to the tip of the tongue, and then across the palate – allows the beer drinker to better enjoy the balance in the beer, and also experience the lusciousness of the body of the beer in the mid-palate.
In terms of presentation, IPA’s present best when they have a full, tight head that is retained as the beer is drunk. The shape of the IPA glass promotes the development of the head in the pour. The nucleation site at the base of an IPA glass (a laser etched spot on the inside base of the glass) promotes release of carbon dioxide which continues to supplement and replenish the head in the beer. Finally, the shape of the glass allows the liquid in the thin base of the glass to ‘sneak under’ the head of the beer – the beer drinker gets to drink a small amount of head, and a substantial amount of beer liquid (as opposed to having to work their way through a thick creamy head with no liquid being drunk initially). This helps to retain the head on the beer, and allows the beer drinker to enjoy the beer while this head is being retained.
Stefan’s Indian Ale (Maisel’s and Friends)
Beer Style India Pale Ale
Alcohol by Volume 7.3% a.b.v.
Brewed by Maisel’s Brewery
Brewed in Bayrueth, Germany.
The India Pale Ale style has been interpreted by many breweries around the world – almost to the point where most American craft breweries don’t feel that they are complete unless they have an IPA in their range, and in some cases, American craft breweries can release many IPA’s. It is particularly pleasing to see breweries that have a reputation for classic beer styles from their home country to decide to interpret the IPA style. Even more so, given that the IPA is an English beer style, it is great to see a German brewer take on the IPA. Maisel’s brewery in Bayreuth, Germany is located in the centre of the hop growing district of Bavaria in Germany. To see this brewery, best known for its wheat beers, take on a style that is centred around hop character, is a delight.
The Maisel’s and Friends range is an initiative by Maisels to interpret a range of different beer styles. As well as a classic Bavarian Ale, and a deliciously luscious Chocolate Bock (both styles originating from a German influence), Maisel’s and Friends foray beyond the borders of Germany is their interpretation of an India Pale Ale – Stefan’s IPA.
Stefan’s IPA presents with a burnished gold colour, and a clean and rich white head that forms quite tightly. The aroma of this IPA shows what can be achieved from hops in a beer that showcases them to their fullest potential. Floral aroma (reminiscent of a full bunch of red roses) combines with soft summer fruit character (peaches, apricot, strawberries), and develops to suggest a hint of spice (in the form of background cinnamon).
This beer is definitively in the alcohol range for India Pale Ales – at 7.3% a.b.v., they have not shied away from the tradition to have an IPA at above average strength. This higher strength brings with it a richness of flavour, but all delivered with a superb balance and refreshing lightness in the character that is not related to the body of the beer (it is luscious and rich in character on the tongue), but more related to how the flavours dance on the palate. Honey and toasty malt, with subtle suggestions of caramel and vanilla custard form the foundation for the explosion of summer fruits on the palate – strawberry, peach, apricot, blueberries, lychee, mango, white grape, apple and blackberry – all combine with the floral aromas to deliver a vibrant combination of aroma and taste. The finish delivers the bitterness that one would associate with an IPA – XX IBU’s – which is perfectly balanced against the malt and fruit sweet character of the beer.
Stefan’s IPA is an incredible beer that showcases all that can be achieved from an appropriate use of hops in a beer style designed to showcase this character. Lovers of IPA should include this beer on their bucket list – hard to believe that your life is complete if you have not had the chance to taste the best IPA’s available.
Widmer Upheaval IPA
Beer Style India Pale Ale
Alcohol by Volume 7.0% a.b.v.
Brewed by Widmer Brothers
Brewed in Portland, Oregon, U.S.A.
Widmer Brothers Kurt and Rob delight in showcasing a range of beer styles. At any one time, Widmer brew and present to beer drinkers across the U.S. a range of up to fifty beers. Around ten to twelve of these beers make it to us in Ireland.
Widmer Upheaval is Widmer’s showcase IPA. Pale straw gold with a distinctly cloudy appearance, this bottle conditioned beer has a crisp and full, tight white head. Brewed with six different hop varieties and three types of malt, together with some wheat to provide light effervescent character and full head, Widmer Upheaval has a depth of character that reflects the layers of ingredients used in the beer.
To start with the aroma, tangerine and mango, together with sweet honey combine with the classic resinous pine and citrus lemon-lime that one associates with classic American style India Pale Ales. This beer is lighter in body – it has sufficient body to balance both the alcohol content and the bitterness, but the alcohols in the beer avoid higher alcohols that can deliver an overpowering richness of character, and provide full strength in a subtle and incredibly sophisticated way. There is sufficient honey sweetness to balance the distinctive rich bitter finish that lingers in a dry and refreshing way.
Widmer Upheaval showcases the classic American interpretation of the India Pale Ale style, and does so in a way that delivers incredible drinkability. The strength of 7.0% a.b.v. is disguised by the lightness of flavour of the beer, and the refreshing dry finish of the beer makes Widmer Upheaval incredibly moreish. This is a superb example of the American IPA style, showcasing the subtle complexity that has come to characterise the latest generation of India Pale Ales – a move away from the compulsion that characterised 1980’s American Brewers desire to overpower the palate with hop bitterness, and towards a demonstration of the richness and flavour that can be achieved from the use of hops in the appropriate way. Widmer Upheaval has the drinkability necessary to allow it to be an every day IPA without compromising the fullness and richness of the style.
