Once a part of the old Gaelic kingdom of Breffni under the rule of the O’Rourkes, county Leitrim has known its share of hardships throughout the history of Ireland. Decimated by the Great Famine of 1845–1847, which saw the local population drop by more than 40,000 to 112,000, decades of emigration mean it has dwindled down to just 25,000 in 2015.
The western county owes its name to Leitrim village, which lies near the Shannon. An O’Rourke stronghold during the Middle Ages, it comes from the Irish Liath Druim, meaning ‘Grey Ridge’. But the county is lush with green, helped in no uncertain terms by the prominence of waterways and lakes. In fact, the county’s soil retains water so readily that the running joke is that the land is sold by the gallon rather than by acre.
But what are the five must-see things to do in Leitrim?
5: Glencar Waterfall
The waterfall inspired WB Yeats [Flickr/barit]
Standing 50ft tall by Glencar Lough, this waterfall is 11km west of Manorhamilton and, rather fittingly given the 150th anniversary of WB Yeats’ birth, features in the Nobel Prize-winne’s poem The Stolen Child. The stunning waterfall is one of a few that can be seen from the road passing through the region, though it is the standout – and best seen from the woodland walkway that surrounds it.
4: Manorhamilton Castle
The 17th century castle was built by Sir Frederick Hamilton between 1634 and 1638, and was the site of attacks and rebellion. Tour guides now lead visitors through the structure’s bloody history, taking in how it was constructed and destroyed, and the permanent exhibitions of life during the period – though these tours do need to be arranged in advance. Find out all the details here.
3: The Organic Centre
Found in Rossinver, these gardens are open to public visitors seven days a week, where everyone can learn about what contemporary organic growing is like. You can take courses, get some inspiration from the demo gardens, marvel at the willow sculptures, show your children how green their thumbs can be in the kids’ garden, or simply mill about among the ducks, geese, hens and cows.
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2: Sean Mac Diarmada’s Homestead
As we approach the centenary of the 1916 Easter Rising, it’s the perfect time to pay a visit to the house and family home of Rebellion leader Sean Mac Diarmada. The ill-fated revolutionary was one of the seven who signed the Proclamation of Independence, and was executed by British forces in May, 1916. His home is a modest three-roomed thatched cottage near Kiltyclogher, but played an important part in building the country we know today. Can be visited by appointment only (Tel: 071 985 3249)
This museum celebrates Ireland’s first and last coal mines, set in the hills of North Roscommon. Arigna is located in a stunning valley, complete with awe inspiring scenery, which belies the hardships faced by the generations of locals who mined into the ground for coal for four centuries – finally closing in 1990. The dangerous and exhausting work in miserable conditions have been – in a surprisingly fun way – recreated for visitors, who can walk underground through the last working mine in Arigna.
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Every Tuesday on The Right Hook, travel writer Manchán Magan opens up the whole wide world to George in the confines of the studio. Listen back to the podcast below.
