With wine (particularly with Old World wines), the geographic origin of the wine is a key factor influencing people’s expectations of the quality and style of the wine. In winemaking, the key steps in making wine – grapes are harvested, crushed and the juice is fermented – all happen close to the vineyards. Beer is less restricted in this sense – the raw materials used in brewing are more easily transported, and the style of a beer owes as much to the brewer’s skill and creativity as it does to the place in which the beer is brewed.

It is somewhat ironic, then, that the style of beer most prevalent in the world – the pale coloured lager known as ‘pilsner’ – has a name which literally means ‘from the town of Pilsen (in the Czech Republic). In reality, as a result of twists in history, ‘pilsners’ are no more intrinsically connected to brewing in the town of Pilsen than hamburgers are connected to cooking in the town of Hamburg. Pilsners are brewed all over the world – though in all cases, brewers of pilsners recognise the origins and provenance of the Pilsner style.

To-day, we have a Germany vrs. Ireland challenge on our hands. In advance of the upcoming Germany – Ireland soccer match (Oct. 7th – a match which Ireland will undoubtedly win!!) – we have set a challenge between an Irish craft-brewed pilsner and (Carrig Pilsner, brewed in Drumshanbo, County Leitrim) and a German Pilsner (the original German Pils – Bitburger). Both beers are brewed in the pilsner style (though with slight stylistic differences in their influences).

Bitburger –

Beer Style - German Pilsner
Alcohol by Volume - 4.8% a.b.v
Brewed by - Bitburger Brewery
Brewed in - Bitburg, Germany

Bitburger was the original German pilsner. When comparing German Pilsners with Bohemian Pilsners, the comparisons often remind me of the argument that waged between Steve Jobs and Bill Gates when Jobs accused Gates of stealing intellectual property to allow him to build the Windows Operating System. Gates reply was that it was more accurate to say that both Jobs and Gates had stolen the intellectual property from IBM – Jobs had just done it first. In a similar vein, the style of Bohemian Pilsner was made possible by the fact that Josef Groll had smuggled yeast out of Bavaria to the brewery that recruited him in the town of Pilsen. Germans would argue that accusations that they ‘stole’ the Pilsner style from the Czech brewers should really be considered in this context.

Germany is probably the country in the world that is most famous for establishing brewing standards. The Rheinheitsgebot of 1516 – the famous ‘German Purity Laws’ – restricted ingredients in brewing – water, malted barley and hops. Later, when yeast’s role in brewing was better understood, yeast was included in the list of allowable ingredients. Historically, many different ingredients were used in brewing beer, and the German Purity Laws, as well as being a protectionist measure by Brewing Guilds to protect their industry, were a measure designed to ensure that beers were not adulterated. This philosophy and tradition continues. Bitburger uses ‘Seal’ hops – hops whose origin is certified and confirmed to authenticate the fact that they are grown in specific regions of Germany and to a specific standard of quality.

Bitburger presents with a classic pale gold colour, and pours with a full, well formed white head. Aromas are delicate, with an earthy, herbal character predominating. True to style, yeast delivers clean, crisp flavours that allow the malt and hops to shine through. The malt foundation for the beer comes through as bread crust, with an initial soft malt sweetness on the palate. As Bitburger is swallowed, more assertive bitterness comes through, and the beer finishes quite dry. There is a gentle spiciness that combines with a soft, dry, subtly bitter finish.

Bitburger is quite simply a superb pilsner. Without the aggressive punch that one would associate with many craft beers, Bitburger is classically refined, superbly balanced, deliciously crisp, but delivering layers of flavour – each one balanced against the other – in a superbly sophisticated way. Bitburger would be recognised as a classic, signature example of the German Pilsner style – not only because it is the original German pilsner, but also because it delivers in character and flavour all of the traits that one hoping to brew this style of beer would hope to achieve.

Carrig Pilsner –

Beer Style - Pilsner (with a Czech or Bohemian Pilsner Influence)
Alcohol by Volume - 4.8% a.b.v.
Brewed by - Carrig Craft Brewing Company
Brewed in - Drumshanbo, County Leitrim

The most regular reason that craft breweries give as to why they set up is to deliver increased choice to beer drinkers. Carrig Craft Brewing Company is no exception. Sinead Deegan – founder of the brewery – said that the absence of choice from domestic, mainstream breweries was a main reason why she established the beer with her husband, Marty. The brewery has brewed a range of beers - Poacher’s Pale Ale, Carrig Irish Lager, Brazen Amber Ale, Pipers Pale Ale, Rowers Red Ale, Coalface Black IPA as well as seasonal beers – and are delivering choice to their customers.

Carrig Pilsner is their interpretation of the classic Czech Pilsner style. Pouring with the classic pale gold colour, and with a tight white head, Carrig Pilsner presents exactly as a pilsner should. Bohemian (or Czech) Pilsners differ in some key ways from German Pilsners – and Carrig Pilsner reflects these differences. Firstly, in comparison to Bitburger, Carrig Pilsner is notably less dry in its finish. There is a soft sweetness – the suggestion of honey sweetness – on the palate, which is present, but in no way cloying or detracting from the crisp, refreshing character of the beer. The Czech Pilsner style allows for low levels of butterscotch (diacetyl) in the beer – Carrig Pilsner blends subtle butterscotch with this gentle sweetness on the palate. Bitterness in Carrig Pilsner is perhaps a touch lower than one would associate with classic Czech Pilsners, but there is a distinct hop spiciness in the finish that comes through as black pepper. This mingles with a lemon fruitiness – both, I expect, deriving from the use of a single hop (Saaz) in the beer for both bittering and aroma.

Carrig Pilsner demonstrates that a classic style can be interpreted by small craft breweries. In some ways, the success of the pilsner style has probably been aided rather than constricted by the fact that pilsners are brewed the world over. With ‘pilsner’ recognised as a style designation, craft breweries are free to brew their interpretation of the style, and the result is a wider variety of pilsners – each influenced by the preferences and practices of the craft brewery interpreting the style. The world is a better place for the increased choice!

Bitburger Beer Available In –

• Granuaile, Kinnegad, County Westmeath
• Jus De Vine Off-Licence, Portmarnock, Dublin
• Egan's Food and Wine, Portlaoise, Co. Laoise
• Joe Smith Bar, Navan, County Meath
• Next Door, Meath St, Dublin
• Whelans Wexford St, Dublin 2
• The Comet, Santry, Dublin
• McCabe's Off-Licence, Blackrock, County Dublin
• Callans Off-licence, Dundalk, County Louth
• Sweeney's Wine Merchants, Phibsboro, Dublin
• Eurospar, Dalkey, County Dublin
• Chill Inn, Ongar, Dublin
• Spar Rathoath
• Next Door, Harolds Cross, Dublin 6 & outlets in Phibsboro, Ringsend
• The High Horse, Market Street, Trim, Co. Meath
• The 12th Lock
• The Bar Tender, Dundalk
• O'Donovan's Off-Licence Group
• McHughs O/L, Malahide Road, County Dublin
• McHughs O/L, Kilbarrack, Dublin
• Next Door Forum, The Glen, Waterford, Co Waterford
• Worldwide Wines, Dunmore Rd, Waterford
• J & A Barry, Carry Out Head Office
• To do - Ex Duty Prices
• Coolers Swords
• Musgraves Retail Partners Ireland
• Next Door Off-Licences
• Matson's Off-Licences, Douglas and Bandon, Cork
• No. 5 Off-Licence, Waterford
• Desmond's Next Door, Fr. Russell Road, Raheen, Limerick
• DCH Off-Licence, Carrig-On-Suir
• Number 21 Off-Licence, Ballinacurra, Midleton, Cork
• Matson's Inns, Douglas, Cork
• Next Door @ Shannon Knights, Skycourt, Shannon, Co Clare
• T/ A Number 21 Off Licence, 2 Park Mews, Charleville, Co. Cork
• Number 21 Off-Licence, Ballincollig, Co. Cork
• Number 21 Off-Licence, Ashdale House, Blarney, Co. Cork
• Number 21 Off Licence, The Glen, Waterford, Co. Waterford
• Number 21 Off Licence, Listowel, Co. Kerry
• Dwan's Spar, Ballycullen, Dublin 16
• Next Door, Kilcoole, County Wicklow
• Blackrock Cellars Off-Licence, Blackrock, County Dublin
• The Wine Centre, U 12 Kilkenny Retail Park, Springhill, Kilkenny, Co. Kilkenny
• Donnybrook Fair, 89 Morehampton Road, Donnybrook, Dublin 4
• Cheers Off Licence @ The Silver Granite, Kennelsfort Road Upper, Palmerstown, Dublin 20
• T/A The Hungry Monk, Church Road, Greystones, Co. Wicklow
• Kavanagh's Off-Licence, Dorset Street, Dublin 1
• Bleeding Horse
• Healys Wicklow