The people responsible for promoting New Zealand and Australian wine host tastings in Dublin each year and both recently held them in January. There were of course lots of terrific Sauvingon Blancs and Pinot Noirs, along with Chardonnays and Pinot Gris at the kiwi event. It's no surprise that Aussie Chardonnays and Shirazes shone too but the quiet star at both events was arguably Riesling. I didn't taste one I didn't enjoy. There were a few off dry ones but mostly it's all about dry Rieslings.

Many consumers though tragically seem averse to the variety and expect it to taste like cheap sweet liebfraumilch. Nothing could be further from the truth. For starters liebfraumilch almost never contains Riesling, it's mostly made from Muller Thugau. The key flavours for dry Riesling, whether from NZ, Australia or Alsace are citrus, ie, lemon and lime and the better ones have a chalky or stony mineral character and a crisp acidity. They are refreshing on their own as an aperitif and obviously fish and shellfish but sensational with a variety of Asian cuisines.

While no New Zealand region has made a specialty of it Australian Riesling can come from almost anywhere across the continent too but its spiritual home is the Clare Valley, north of Adelaide, although producers in the Eden Valley not too far away might argue with that. In case you are wondering the Clare Valley was named by an obviously homesick Co. Clare man, Edward Gleeson in the 1840s.

Wines Tasted on the Show

Peter Lehmann Wigan Riesling 2006, Eden Valley. €25-28 in good independents such as Jus de Vine, Portmarnock and The Corkscrew D2.

This is not named after the Lancashire town but chief winemaker Andrew Wigan, veteran of over 30 vintages. It's always aged before release and gains teriffic intensity. This is a multiple trophy winning wine in various vintages and has been awarded 'Best Riesling in the World' six times at the International Wine and Spirit Competition.

Vickery Riesling 2013, Watervale, Clare Valley, €25, (15% discount as part of a dozen), Whelehan's Wines, Loughlinstown.
Vickery is John Vickery who was voted Australia's greatest living winemaker by his peers in 2003 and has been making Riesling since the 1950s. He really is Australia's 'Mr Riesling'.

Martin Moran MW @winerepublic or @thegargleguru