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Travel on Tom Dunne ”“ Bob Kelly goes to Derry

As our series of unsung heroes comes to a close we move our attention back to Ireland and over ...
Newstalk
Newstalk

13.39 12 Sep 2012


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Travel on Tom Dunne ”“ Bob Kel...

Travel on Tom Dunne ”“ Bob Kelly goes to Derry

Newstalk
Newstalk

13.39 12 Sep 2012


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As our series of unsung heroes comes to a close we move our attention back to Ireland and over the border to one of the most talked about, written about and much misunderstood cities we have.

But rather I suggest that we have left the best to last. Not because its the biggest, has more canals, better concert halls, tastier local wine or any other specific detail. Its simply because as we are celebrating the lesser visit, also ran, middle children of a country’s cities, and this place is just that – the one that deserves our attention the most!

What’s in a name?

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Like Rory McIlroy these days this wee city appears to have an identity crisis. And just like the worlds greatest golfer the fight seems to be more in the minds of the media and hardliners. In fact you may realise that I have thus far even managed to avoid naming this rose. Doire/Londonderry/Derry? (I include the question mark as my own contribution). Honestly I had hoped to get this little piece done without ever recognizing the large mammal uncomfortably rearranging the furniture in the corner.

But its not possible. Because as a visitor you have to name it, refer to it and talk about it. Sure how would you ask for directions? Consider some poor Japanese tourist trying to set out for “Derry” from Belfast? I’ve only ever called it Derry, in fact the Doire is a new one for me (the original Gaelic moniker circa 590 a.d.) and of course I’ve only ever heard it called Londonderry in media outside of Ireland. So invariably we get the nickname Stroke city. If they put that on signposts they’d save money on paint!

The mammal in the room

Whilst at the other end of the island we play the dingle-daingean-dingle game, up here its serious – sadly life-threatening. And this is where I come to the next large mammal in the room that I mistakenly thought I could avoid discussing. The troubles. I had the pleasure of the company of a friend from England/Britain/UK and the confusion was in danger of being the focus of the weekend break, effectively spoiling it.

So the quick answer as to why the many names… St Columb probably called it Doire after the dense oaks groves that covered the place, this became Derry phonetically (Dublin was once Dubhlinn for instance), the city was given a royal charter by King in early 17th century and the money and expertise came from the London corporation who tagged it with London to get their money’s worth. (By the way 3 years ago an official request was made to have it renamed Derry, the Queen has yet to respond).

The solution was to come in the form of something I often avoid doing… a guided tour. So just as other cities in this series have had me doing things I wouldn’t normally do, D/LD/D has me walking around with a guide pointing out the things I should really be looking at. And once again I have been proven wrong (I’m getting used to it now).

Quite simply if it’s your first time in this city you have to do this (or some form of tour), if you’ve been here before its even more important. We chose a tour with the Martin McCrossan company, and whilst we didn’t get Martin himself (he’s usually taking Will Ferrell or Esther Rantzen around) we got a man whom they both agree is also the best tour guide in town. Garvan will win Oscars or Oliviers if he choses to change career. The man really took us on a journey, deftly moving back and forth through early christian, 17th century, WWII, the undertones and bang up to now! Reenacting, detailing and delicately revealing the many layers of this incredible wee city. And all whilst walking backwards!

The man knows everything and everyone in the place. And its this instant explanation that makes you settle in to the place. All those questions you were afraid to ask? You feel comfortable and, although not exactly knowledgeable, you are equipped with the means to take in the city, some kind of understanding.

The tour is basically a walk around the city’s No.1 attraction and one of its many claims to fame – It is the oldest completely walled city in Europe. The walls were only 100% accessible after the peace process as the army installed itself on a good portion of it. But now you are free to stroll the 1 mile plus of very impressive 17th century masonry. Up on the wall you are away from the considerable hustle and buzz of the city. And the views give you the full 360′ vantage and facilitate the telling of the many stories that make the history of the place. Garvan’s walking tour is a slow train undulating around the various buildings but the stories relating to these places are an emotional roller coaster.

After that I feel a visit to the various buildings dotted around is a must. The Cathedral, the “wee” Augustine church, the apprentice boys hall, the gates, the canons and most of all the Tower Museum. A highly recommended stop to really get the history covered in detail.

Get out of town.

One of the other great things about this city is that its so perfectly located in the middle of some of the most beautiful landscapes in Ireland. In one day you can do the Giants causeway (perhaps a taste of Bushmills whiskey) and the Inis Eoghan peninsula, finishing up at the top of Ireland on Malin head. Either one of these areas of natural beauty would be enough to put a place on the map as a tourist magnet but two? And yet the two couldn’t be more different!

The causeway drive takes you through the fertile farmland and gentle rolling hills, the coastal dunes with precariously balanced castles and treacherous rope bridges, and maybe a stop for tea and cake; whilst back over the border the farms quickly give way to the spectacular and rugged hills, crags and bogs, roads that would make a rally driver cautious, and maybe a stop for a nice pint and bowl of chowder (many will not resist the photo opportunity on arrival in Muff and the really brazen will attempt to gain membership of the sub-aqua club…). It’s this stark contrast that rings in your ears on your return to your hotel in the city and leaves you in no doubt of the powerful fault line that runs through it.

The Free Derry Murals

A gallery of sorts, but no art, street or museum, packs this much power. The collection of murals in the Free Derry part of the bogside is stunning. Its visible from the wall walk but it must be seen up close and is only complete by walking deep into the community. It tells some of the story of the troubles and will help you get some understanding of the struggle this community has been through.

id="attachment_229815" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 240px"> class="size-full wp-image-229815 " title="undertones" src="http://admin.newstalk.ie/wp-content/files/2012/09/undertones.jpg" alt="The Undertones" width="230" height="257" />

class="wp-caption-text">Derry's pop-punk legends, The Undertones

A musical city

One of my favourite album titles is the Orchestra Baobab’s “Specialist in all styles”, well this tiny city and county have produced more leaders in more fields of music of all styles than you’d think possible. Phil Coultor, The Undertones, Dana, Nadine Coyle, Neil Hanann and Joseph Locke! (Paul Brady’s from down the road in Strabane) Throw in two Nobel Laureates (Seamus Heaney and John Hume) and you see that they work hard in this city. So with this in mind its no surprise that come the weekend there isn’t a pub near the place that isn’t knocking out tunes of some description.

And this is what brings us to one of the biggest draws for the visitor – the craic. Be it the music, the slaggin’, banter or whatever craic actually  is, but either way they have tonnes of it! A pub crawl up Waterloo street is compulsory, although you’ll be forgiven for not leaving some pubs like Peadar’s at all because you’re having too much fun to risk having to go next door. But there are some great spots outside the walls too and Sandino’s is one of them. We got weighlayed here one night, a classic “lets just pop in for one…” and the rest is a blurry history (that involved scrabble at one stage…).

A wee bite

As me granny used to say “Never eat without drinking” or was it “Never drink without eating”? Either way I’m covered. One place that best encompasses this philosophy is Karma. A spin-off from the very successful Mandarin Chinese restaurant next door (where if you don’t book on a Saturday night you’ll be waiting), Karma is a glitzy, fun cocktail bar replete with huge Buddha’s, clam shell booths, flames and world class mixologists. We were spoiled by manager Paul McGinley. The speciality here is cocktails, nothing earth shattering there, but the combo of really good Asian and European tapas takes things up a notch. And with great service bringing you amazing food and drink and a classy lounge style singer you’d once again be hard pressed to do anything but stay put and people watch. But luckily they invented brunch, lunch and early bird dinners! And I can’t recommend Cafe Del Mundo enough for these great dining opportunities. Again great service and cosy atmosphere had us first in and last out. And the best sales pitch of a wine I’ve ever read  … Damp earth scents… made only with organic sheep’s manure… sure you’d have to try it! If you’ve any room left on your belt for a new buckle hole then the India house offers great curries till fairly late.

Vital statistics

People watching is always fun and will undoubtedly be an Olympic sport in 2016, but here a statistic you should watch is the 62% female population. Yes the nightlife, music, abundant golf courses and go cart tracks leads me to think that a boys weekend break would work very well here.

Down to the river

So your eaten a few plates of spicy squid and pattatas bravas, one or two martinis the only thing for it is a romantic stroll down the all new promenade and onto the stunningly beautiful Peace Bridge. This addition to the city really does make the place complete. At night its lit up like a Xmas tree and a stroll across is highly recommended.

This piece of civil engineering is really as much an art installation as it is a symbolic and actual attempt to reconnect the city’s two sides. By day its is busy with strolling families, cyclists and pensioners reading the paper. On the waterside it finishes up at the newly redeveloped St Coloumb’s park. A venue in waiting for the biggest year of Derry/Londonderry’s revival.

id="attachment_229816" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 610px"> class="size-full wp-image-229816 " title="foyle-river-derry" src="http://admin.newstalk.ie/wp-content/files/2012/09/foyle-river-derry.jpg" alt="River Foyle, Derry" width="600" height="260" />

class="wp-caption-text">River Foyle, Derry. Image: By john.purvis/Flickr

The City of Culture

Yes they have received one of the biggest honours and duties conferred on a city. They will be next years City of Culture hosting a shed load of events and goings on that will see the city literally burst at the seams! The main spot will be the park playing host to over 50 gigs. The city is busy getting ready for this momentous year building hotels to accommodate the throng of visitors. One happy cabbie told me there were only 500 rooms in the city, so get booking soon.

SMALL is the new big

This “problem” is one of the most attractive things. Derry feels small and cosy and welcoming. Although its not the smallest in our series weighing in at 110k (its much bigger than Sligo with 20k), it feels like it is? Maybe its because I found myself recognising people and even the nodding to strangers thing that is usually reserved for small towns and villages. I’d been here before many times but this is the first time I really discovered the place.

So will you go to the “Town I loved so well”? Will they have enough hotels to house the thousands that will? Will Rory McIlroy figure out where he’s from? Yes you should go, I hope you do because apart from having a great time there I think its also time we all recognised (with our feet and wallets not just from a distance) how well they are doing up here, how much things have changed and how hopeful the place feels and how bright the future is. As a tourist the choices you make can be as powerful as a vote, and more direct.

As for the greatest golfer in the world, well if the peace process has underlined anything it’s the right to be whatever you want, wherever you want and even whenever you want! We don’t have the right to force anyone to call himself one or the other, and just like this city a rose by any other name…. maybe he should be Rory “Stroke” McIlroy?

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With thanks to Choice Hotel Group ”“ Four star Hotels, Individual and Different

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FaceBook Bob himself href="http://www.facebook.com/bob.kelly.92123">http://www.facebook.com/bob.kelly.92123 | tom@newstalk.ie

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